Theres been some restaurant relocations recently. The Lancer Steakhouse on Carnegie, known for its African-American cooking and well connected clientele, suffered a devastating fire that burned their building to the ground in December. But they are now back in business across the street (7804 Carnegie) in what was Angie’s Soul Cafe.
Meanwhile Angie’s has set-up shop at 3859 Superior. This building formerly housed the Town Fryer. (which moved to the Agora…and is closing next week).
Think Gallucci’s is just a place to buy cheese, olives, pasta and other wonderful things to eat? Think again. On February 9th, from 6:30-8:30 PM, owner Ray Gallucci and his sidekick Chuck Masterpaul, who owned and operated Noggins Restaurant in Shaker Heights for 27 years, are hosting an Italian cooking class in the store. It’s a learn and dine event with a focus on winter comfort foods. The evening begins with Ray’s guided tour of an antipasto platter followed by lessons in how to prepare Tuscan beans, great as a side dish or a sauce for pasta; truffle risotto; braised lamb shanks and roasted vegetables; and balsamic syrup for a strawberry dessert. First you watch, then you have at it with fork and spoon. Though there ’s no drinking of wine, pairings will be recommended for each dish. Buy bottles after the meal to take home along with anything else that captures your fancy during closed store shopping.
Seating’s setup in the aisle in front of the bakery counter. The small space can only accomdate 24. Chuck told me that if they have a sell out crowd and more who want to come, they’ll schedule a second session.
Cost is $50 per person. Reservations required. Call 216-881-0045 and ask for Chuck (be sure to tell him you read about the class on this blog), or email ray@tasteitaly.com
Trend watchers say next up in the ethnic fare popularity contest are Peruvian, Moroccan, Korean, Japanese and New American Southern. According to the Emerging Global Cuisines: Culinary Trend Mapping Report from the Center for Culinary Development (CCD) and Packaged Facts immigration, international travel, cooking shows, and celebrity chefs plus its availability in fast food format are helping to bring these cuisines to the U.S. public’s attention. Full Story
Do you know anything about these culinary newcomers and can you ercommend dishes to try? Here in NEO we’ve got Korean, Japanese, and some New American Southern. Sadly no Peruvain or Moroccan that I know about. What’s your favorite ethnic cuisine and where do you go to get it?
Check out this story: India and China meet on the plate
Dishes created by Chinese people living in India are spicier than the Chinese food familiar to most Americans. The flavorful cuisine, known as Indian-Chinese, combines classic Indian ingredients such as garam masala, cilantro and tamarind with Chinese ingredients such as soy sauce, ginger and garlic. National Public Radio . Then, go sample some Indo-Chinese food at Cuisine of India in Parma Heights (Cleveland Ethnic Eats, 8th edition, page 60). Piece includes recipes and you can find all the ingedients required at the Asian and Indian markets listed in the book.
Food writer Jane Snow and I bumped into each other in November at the Fabulous Food Show. We had lost touch after she left the Beacon Journal some years ago. Happy to reconnect, we made plans to get together, meeting not long ago in Akron at Sushi Katsu, a tiny restaurant hidden behind a strip mall and owned by her husband Tony Kawaguchi. He trained in Japan, where he was born, and ended up in northeast Ohio by way of Hawaii (hard to believe he traded that weather for this), with stints in New York, Chicago, Aspen, and Los Angeles.
The man’s a true master and artist when it comes to transforming raw fish into a something beautiful to behold and wonderful to eat. Sitting at the counter and watching him work is fascinating- its all about precision, economy of movement, focus, and a deep understanding of the ingredients he uses to create the traditional nigiri, sashimi, maki and temaki that he serves. He’s invented quite a few specialty rolls, among them a series named after area locales like Munroe Falls, Hudson, Kent and Stow. The menu also offers some cooked specialities: his baked scallops are outstanding.
The restaurant has been in operation since 1996, but I haven’t been there in many years and had forgotten about it. So this was like a new discovery for me. It’s not included in Cleveland Ethnic Eats. When I first contacted Tony, shortly after he opened, he didn’t want to be in the book. He can’t remember now if it was because he misunderstood and thought I was trying to get him to buy a listing or if he feared the publicity would attract more customers than his little place could handle. I asked again a couple of years later and got the same cold shoulder. Whatever the reason, its old news. Thanks to his wife, we’re back in touch, communicating successfully, and the restaurant will definitely appear in the next edition. But don’t wait till then to visit. If you’re a sushi lover like me , I encourage you to get yourself there as soon as possible. Telly Tony Laura sent you.
Made the rounds of some of my favorite places today. First stop West Side Market, where I picked up andouille and chorizo sausages, saffron and arborio rice, and a little wheel of goat camembert. The place was mobbed. Also ate a felafel. Next stop Farkas Bakery for Napoleans. It smells so incedibly good inside becaise no walls separate the kitchen from the front of the shop. Note to self: when I need cheering up, I should just go there and inhale deeply for a few minutes Then back to the East side where I bought prosecco- Italian bubbly- at The Grapevine. I love this town, I really do.
I’ve just discovered the most fantastic dessert. The official name is Engadiner Nusstorte. But at Zoss The Swiss Baker (12397 Cedar Road), the only place to get it in the Cleveland area, this excellent cake has been rechristened St. Moritz Nut Torte, a handle with more style that’s much easier for Americans to say.
Essentially it’s a caramelized walnut pie, similar to pecan pie but much much better and without the cloying over the top sugariness of corn syrup. A traditional creation from the southeastern part of Switzerland, the torte features a rich, buttery double crust with a cookie taste and texture. The filling is made with cream, walnuts, honey and sugar, a sweet but not too sweet combination that’s velvety smooth like frosting except for the nut chunks. The finished product is dense and a small slice is more than satisfying, so a little goes a long way. Delicious on it’s own and picture pretty, the torte is especially nice with a dollop of real whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.
What’s especially amazing about this cake is how well it keeps. I had a piece cut from one made weeks earlier and would never have known that it wasn’t freshly baked. This makes it ideal for gift giving and shipping. Also good to have on hand for serving unexpected company or bringing to a holiday gathering.
Kurt and Barbara Zoss only make this labor intensive preparation during the holiday season, and cakes must be special ordered. Call 2160368-4055 to make sure there’s one for your table, and one- or more- for some lucky people on your list.
These remarks from Mark Erickson, Vice President Dean of Culinary Education at The Culinary Institute of Education, struck me as particularly profound and representative of what is at the heart of Cleveland Ethnic Eats.
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Mark Erickson
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The challenge for chefs today is to not only be aware of authentic cuisines, but to truly understand them. Our customers are now well-traveled and culturally savvy, and they have come to expect a variety of world flavors, whether they’re dining out or shopping at the supermarket.
At the same time that we learn about new cuisines, it becomes our responsibility to protect and maintain our culinary heritage. Many traditions that have been passed from generation to generation are in danger of disappearing because of the fast-paced world in which we now live. Therefore, our approach to ingredients, cuisines and fundamental cooking techniques continues to be key to all culinary professionals — no matter how innovative and experienced we may be.
We would not be where we are today if it weren’t for the work of those who came before us, and one can say that the past and the future are equally important to the culinary arts. That’s why our chefs and instructors are exploring both, through diverse, innovative research initiatives. They’re seeking to shed new light on the underlying science of our craft, preserve the art of time-honored culinary traditions, and share those results with the industry.
Help for moms and dads who want their kids to have a taste for pad thai, chicken korma, and grilled calamari.
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New Videos Help Parents of Picky Eaters Author of “My Two-Year Old Eats Octopus,” gives mealtime tips for raising children who love to eat everything. |
Sad news that specialty grocer Chandler and Rudd on Chagrin Boulevard closed earlier this month. The market has been included in a decade’s worth of editions of Cleveland Ethnic Eats, but it’s much much older than that, with a history that goes back 145 years. I used to buy cookies and candies from England there as gifts for a Brit-born friend, and loved all the products from Germany,Italy, and France because they were things I ate when living in Europe as a teenager. A fascinating article by reporter Janet Cho in Sunday’s Plain Dealer charts the rise and fall of this culinary landmark.
